Just a quick ~35 minute train ride from Madrid, Toledo feels like you’ve crossed not just miles, but centuries. Sitting high above the Tagus River, this UNESCO World Heritage city is a maze of cobblestone lanes, medieval walls, and layers of history that have unfolded over two thousand years. Known as the “City of Three Cultures” for its Christian, Jewish, and Muslim influences, Toledo is a place where every turn offers a new architectural surprise.
During my most recent visit to Madrid about a month ago, I finally made the journey to Toledo! It’s a place that was always on my radar that I somehow never visited, even after spending an entire summer as an au pair in Madrid a while back.
How to Get to Toledo
The train was about $25 roundtrip and I gave myself about 5 hours in Toledo which I felt was a good amount of time. I traveled to Toledo in mid-July and many of the train options were sold out. The weekend trains were entirely sold out but I was able to make the day trip work on a weekday. I booked my train on Omio, but you can also book on Renfe or at the train station.
All of the trains leave from the Madrid Atocha station (shown below) which is very easy to reach by public metro, bus, or with Uber/Taxi.
As I mentioned earlier, the train ride is about 30-35 minutes and takes you through some of the beautiful countryside that surrounds Madrid. I packed a day bag in a tote with water, sunscreen, a portable phone charger, and my typical Vogelle Shoulder Bag which holds my necessities (wallet, Airpods, keys, etc.).
From the Train Station to Toledo
As you exit the train station, most everyone will be heading towards Toledo. Turn right as you leave the station, cross the street, and keep going up Paseo de la Rosa. As you turn the corner (about a 6-8 minute walk) you will see Toledo perched high on the hill. This is the view from the street!
Cross the bridge and you will begin to enter the walled city. There are a LOT of stairs that you must take in order to get to the city center, so wear comfortable walking shoes. The cobblestone streets in Toledo are also very slippery, so be mindful of that.
What to See in a Day
Cathedral of Toledo
Start with the Toledo Cathedral, one of Spain’s most magnificent Gothic churches. Its interior altarpiece was unbelievable and the El Greco paintings scattered throughout the church are worth lingering over. This cathedral was extremely impressive. The body of Saint Ursula is on display in the crypt of the cathedral as well, which was a story I was not familiar with and one that I found fascinating. General admission to the cathedral was 10 Euros and it was worth it.
The Jewish Quarter
From there, wander through the Jewish Quarter, where narrow streets hide gems like the Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca and the El Tránsito Synagogue, with are both beautiful reminders of the city’s layered history. Toledo reminded me of my visit to Jerusalem, mainly due to the sectioned off areas of the city that are dedicated to different religions. There is so much history in Toledo and I found the Jewish Quarter to be one of my favorite areas.
El Greco & The Alcázar
No visit is complete without seeing El Greco’s masterpiece, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz, tucked away in the small Church of Santo Tomé. Then, head up to the Alcázar, a fortress-turned-museum with sweeping views of the city and river below.
I also recommend just wandering around. Toledo is stunning and the views from every corner of the city are fantastic due to the city’s height. You can feel the city shift from Christian to Jewish to Muslim as you walk. It’s just a beautiful place to kind of get lost in. Speaking of lost, my Google Maps had a hard time detecting exactly which street I was on in Toledo so it was a bit hard to get around. It reminded me of my difficult time navigating in Venice, Italy. Let go and enjoy!
Where to Eat
Toledo is famous for marzipan, so you will see a lot of that around town! A few great spots to eat for lunch or dinner are:
Lo Nuestro Taperia & Restaura;nte
A Half-Day in Toledo
Toledo is such a unique place in the stunning countryside outside of Madrid and it’s completely worth the trip from Madrid if you have time. The history in Toledo is really something and the architecture, art, cathedrals, and synagogues are some of the most impressive I’ve ever seen. It felt like a small Jerusalem in Spain, and I thoroughly enjoyed my time in this city that is trapped in time.
Depending on how deep into the city you are, give yourself 30-45 minutes to get back to the train station. You might get lost on a few side streets as you head down, and then there’s that ~10 minute walk from the city walls to the station. The best part about taking a quick day trip to Toledo? You can be back in Madrid in time for tapas!
Until Next Time,
Laura
