My recent solo trip to Seoul, South Korea, was wonderful and eye-opening. It was so different than anything I’ve experienced so far, and I already can’t wait to go back and do more of Asia. Seoul is incredibly safe, clean, quiet, and interesting. I felt very safe as a solo female traveler. It’s huge, fast, and layered, and I think four days is just enough to see its history, its tension, and its very good skincare without feeling rushed. This is how I’d do it.
Day 1: Palaces and Bukchon Village
Start at the Gyeongbokgung Palace, the largest of Seoul’s five royal palaces. Get there for the opening and stay for the changing of the guard at Gwanghwamun Gate. If you rent a hanbok from one of the shops nearby, entry to the palace is free. I did not personally rent the hanboks, but I did see others doing it. It’s also a fun way to get photos, and I could see it being a great memory with friends.
From there, walk about 15 minutes to Changdeokgung, which many say is the more beautiful of the two major palaces. The real draw is the Secret Garden (Huwon), which you can only see on a guided tour. Book it ahead, because spots go quickly. I planned this trip pretty last-minute as I was meeting a client in China and decided to fly through Seoul, so I didn’t get to see the garden. It’s on my list, though, when I go back!
In the afternoon, walk to Bukchon Hanok Village, the hillside neighborhood of traditional hanok homes between the two palaces. A guided walking tour is worth it here, and I booked mine through Airbnb and loved it! You’ll learn the history of the area, the history of Korea, and countless cultural notes and traditions as well. You will also get the history behind the architecture and the area instead of just a photo op. People really do live in these houses, so keep your voice down.
Parts of the neighborhood now have set visiting hours (roughly 10am to 5pm in the core residential zone), so plan your walk for midday. When you’re done, head down to Samcheong-dong for coffee and its small design shops. This area is picture-perfect!
Day 2: The Museums
Spend today in the Yongsan district, which is where you will find Seoul’s two most important museums. Both of these museums are free, which was a great surprise.
Start at the National Museum of Korea. It’s enormous, so don’t try to see everything. Go for the Buddhist sculpture, the celadon ceramics, and the Room of Quiet Contemplation, a dim, minimal gallery holding two pensive bodhisattva statues. It’s one of the most beautifully designed museum spaces I know of.
I felt like I learned so much about the pre-war history of Korea here that I didn’t have much context for before visiting. It helped me to better understand the palaces that I had already seen, and it helped me to better understand the country throughout the rest of the trip.
After lunch, go to the War Memorial of Korea. Truly, do not miss this one. It’s heavy, but it gives you the context that makes everything else in North and South Korea make sense, especially the DMZ. The outdoor exhibit of tanks and aircraft is striking, and the indoor galleries on the Korean War are thorough without being overwhelming. Give yourself at least two to three hours.
I had a personal connection to this museum, as my grandpa was a Lieutenant Colonel (Lt Col) in the US Air Force in the Korean War (and other wars that followed). I’ve always been curious about the Korean War for that reason, and seeing the positive results of what he contributed to meant a lot to me. The South Koreans are so grateful to Americans. I was quite taken aback by it. Every time I mentioned that my grandpa was in the Korean War, the Korean person would genuinely thank me and almost get emotional. I’ve never experienced that before, and it was very moving.
Find dinner in your area and get to bed early (maybe with a Korean face mask). Tomorrow is an early start.
Day 3: The DMZ
A trip to the Demilitarized Zone is the most surreal thing you can do from Seoul, and it’s the experience people talk about long after they get home. I personally think this was one of the most transformative and eye-opening things I’ve had the privilege of doing in my life. As an American, I think everyone should understand the separation of North and South Korea on a deeper level. Just one line drawn in the sand separates a free society from the most controlled and oppressed society in the world. It made me beyond grateful to live in a free country and showed me the fragility of freedom.
You do have to go with a tour, so book a reputable one a few days ahead and bring your passport, since you’ll need it at the checkpoints.
I booked my tour with VIP Tours through TripAdvisor and would recommend it to absolutely anyone.
Most tours include the Third Infiltration Tunnel, which North Korea dug toward Seoul and which you walk down into, along with Dora Observatory, where you can look across the border on a clear day, and Imjingak Park. It’s a long, emotionally loaded day, and having the War Memorial behind you makes it hit much harder.
From the Observatory, I saw countless North Korean people working in the fields. You can’t take any photos or make any hand gestures, but what I saw will stay with me forever. Propaganda Village, statues of the Kims, fake apartment buildings with no glass in the windows, the tower that cuts off all reception and internet, keeping their people completely in the dark from the rest of the world. This is a heavy and jarring thing to see, but I think everyone who comes to Seoul should make the time to see it.
You’ll be back in the city by late afternoon. Book a good dinner and spend the night somewhere uplifting.
Day 4: Myeongdong and K-Beauty
End the trip on a lighter note. Myeongdong is Seoul’s busiest shopping district. It’s dense, loud, and full of delicious street food. Go in the late afternoon, when the food stalls start setting up. Get the tornado potato and egg bread, and try whatever has the longest line.
This is also where you’ll do your K-beauty shopping. By this time in your trip, you’ve probably already seen 100+ Olive Young stores. The Olive Young flagship is where I’d tell you to start, with almost every cult Korean brand in one store. Many shops offer tax refunds on the spot if you bring your passport, which is something I wish I knew. Stock up on sheet masks, sunscreens, and serums. They cost a fraction of what you’d pay at home. It’s such a fun experience.
Before You Go
Get a T-money card for the subway (you can add it to your Apple Wallet), download Naver Map (Google Maps doesn’t work in Korea), and wear good shoes. Seoul is a walking city, and it’s hilly.
